So if you are basically any level of climber and you haven’t heard of Eric J. Horst, then you are either an amazing prodigy god, or live in a cave. If you fit neither of those categories and you STILL haven’t heard of Eric Horst, then prepare to have your mind blown.
He is, in my humble opinion, the best and most prolific writer, while not the only by any means, about climbing. All aspects of climbing, technique, physical, and especially mental. I have had a number of his books from the library on numerous occasions and am now eagerly, and somewhat impatiently awaiting the arrival of his Mental Training book which I mentioned in an earlier post.
Now, everyone learns in different ways, but as I am approaching my tenth year in scientific research, and my ninth year in post secondary education (god that sounds like ages), I like reading books, I like reading books which have take home message summaries at the end of chapters, and do you know what I even like taking/making notes. Cool colors, cute pens, fun post it notes, yep, definitely a nerd. Anyway, while whiling away my awesome five day Easter holiday, I am attempting to avoid my German homework with the skills acquired from the aforementioned years of academia, and thus, am instead doing Climbing homework.
Which brings me to an even more amazing website than the link that I included above about Eric. It seems that he has partenered with Nicros, to create a Training Center covering all aspects of climbing.
SO. FRICKING. AWESOME
It’s basically like all of his books, for free, in bite size versions. I have just enjoyed reading all 8 of the technique overview sections, and am super excitied to try to boost my endurance on overhangs by switching my hips in instead of trying to power up the wall facing in. Right now I am in a phase where the easy climbs are too easy, and the harder climbs are too hard. Not quite a plateau really, because I think it’s only temporary and quite logical, but along with picking up skills to move up in difficulty level, I need to develop intuition, instinct, feel. They don’t come overnight, but I am going to try his recommendations, as always improve on quieting my feet, and spend even more time than I already do turning my hips in. As one climbing colleage recently pointed out, I should look for the most obvious hold on a route, because if you are in a gym, someone built it!
So, readers, enjoy the links, enjoy the wealth of experience now available at your finger tips, HIS not MINE :-D, and stay tuned to hear how my efforts turn out tomorrow where we assauge our outdoor-less weekend with a solid gym session.