We went climbing outdoors on the weekend in Engi, Glarus

20 degree forecast, sunshine, light winds, why not go climbing after two days of snowshoeing and trekking?

Some people I knew from the lead climbing course had come to this climbing garden (aka crag for americans I believe), and they said it was really awesome. It was close, the weather was good, so we headed out. It was literally beside the road which was handy, it was a really cool stone. Apparently it was exposed by an avalanche about 15 years ago and they decided to bolt it for sports climbing. Honestly, it looks like there was probably at least one more recently since the fall, there were piles of trees and branches everywhere.


If I were from Glarus, I would not build a house there.

Anyway, the main stone was at some points two rope lengths, and at other points 25m. We had enough rope, but interestingly enough, climber robot German Boy didn’t have enough expresses. They were really close together, which isn’t bad, but we just didn’t have enough. Plus the main stone was hard. Seriously. Easiest was like 5a. Pfft.

So we went to the mini stone, (in the above photo has a dude with a red shirt sitting on the top),  with routes which were still about 15m! Okay, definitely at least 10m, but interestingly enough they were still farily hard, we picked one of the hardest one to start with awkwardly, so I did a fun traverse to an easier one, but got a lot more confident as the day went on. It was super slabby, which really was new for me, but it totally blew my mind decided something the size of a bottle cap was an “awesome super hold”.

I also noticed that there would be moments where I would think “okay, I have to put my right foot there to stand up. But I can’t move it yet. Okay, I will move my left foot to this super horrible place which won’t work, stand on that, and then I can put my right foot on the good one, and it will be okay. Wait. What?”

Apparently I over think things, and need to trust my feet and my instincts more. Which is super cool. I climbed three 4’s, two 3’s and no joke, a 5a. I also “followed” one pitch which was weird and made my yell, which I do when I am scared, and then rapelled down the face of the rock. Go me!


Mildy sunburnt, completely and utterly exhausted, it was an excellent weekend in general.


About adventuresunplugged

The world is a really cool place. I moved to Zurich almost three years ago to start my PhD, and have really enjoyed the different opportunites living close to the Swiss alps offered. This blog is about some of my adventures, climbing, mountaineering, rock climbing, traveling... life in general! Wow, haven't updated this bad boy in some time! While the above is still true I have gone on to finish the PhD, so that is Dr Unplugged to you. I also have landed a job in Switzerland and will be shortly moving to Geneva. Clearly I have some adventures ahead left to explore with you guys along for company!
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